A walk through Leith reveals how old buildings and vessels have found fresh purpose in this vibrant waterfront area of Edinburgh.
Ships, merchants, artists and royals have all left their mark in Leith, and many of the area’s most characterful places have reinvented themselves without losing sight of their past.
From warehouses to restaurants, ships to hotels, drill halls to arts venues, Leith’s story is one of constant reinvention but always anchored in its remarkable past. Here’s just a few examples of the area’s historic sites.
From working ports to stylish stays
Built in 1963, Fingal Hotel began her working life as a tender for the Northern Lighthouse Board, supplying crews stationed at remote lighthouses around Scotland’s coastline. Designed for endurance, rather than elegance, she spent decades at sea delivering fuel and provisions to some of the country’s most isolated outposts. Today, reborn as a 5-star floating hotel, her transformation has preserved many original features, while introducing refined cabins, elegant dining spaces and sweeping deck views. A short walk away, Ocean Mist Leith’s past life has included both a 1920’s pleasure yacht and a WWII torpedo recovery vessel. Now permanently berthed, it has been reimagined as a floating hotel with 17 bedrooms, restaurant and bar, complete with polished decks and sophisticated interiors.
Standing proudly on the Shore, Malmaison Edinburgh occupies a building that once served Leith’s seafaring community. In the late 19th century, it was a seaman’s mission, providing accommodation for sailors while their ship was in port. Today, it offers luxury rooms and dining, while retaining its port-side presence.
Food and drink with history
One of Leith’s oldest surviving buildings, The King’s Wark started out as a royal residence, store house and private armoury for James I. Over the centuries it has also served as a smugglers hut, plague hospital, weigh house, and retail and wine merchant. Today, it’s a welcoming restaurant and pub with an excellent seafood menu. While, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, The Vaults was originally a wine merchants bonded warehouse. Nowadays, it pays homage to its past by offering spectacular drams and a flavour focused menu.
One of the area’s newest food and drink residents is Brown’s of Leith. For over 130 years it was home to industrial activity as an engineering and metalworking site, but has now been transformed into a new food, drink, and arts collaboration hub, housing a collection of local vendors including a new wine and coffee concept from the team behind Timberyard (Haze), seafood bar Shuck Bar (from ShrimpWreck), and a pizza concept from Civerino’s.
A familiar sight throughout the years, the small Leith Walk Police Box’s original function was to provide officers with a base and telephone link. In its second life it’s a pop-up space supporting budding entrepreneurs, foodies, charities, campaigners, creatives and community groups. Check out their website and socials for upcoming events.
Creativity in historic places
Out of the Blue Drill Hall once echoed with the sounds of marching feet and training commands. Today, its role has shifted to a vibrant arts and community venue, hosting performances, exhibitions and local events.
Completed in 1812, Leith Custom House retained its original use until 1980, when it became a museum store. Now, it is now a creative hub, event space, and office space for artists and designers, with proposals to include Scotland’s first fully digital museum.
Icons of Leith’s maritime history
Built to serve the Royal Family, The Royal Yacht Britannia travelled the world as a floating palace and working ship. Now permanently berthed in Leith, it is one of Scotland’s most popular attractions, offering a glimpse into royal life at sea.
Completed in 1816, this elegant Georgian building was the headquarters for the Incorporation of Mariners and Shipmasters for nearly 200 years. Now, Trinity House is a maritime museum with historical collections, marine maps, navigation equipment, and ship models, giving insight into Leith’s seafaring heritage. Open on select days, keep an eye on their website for upcoming events.
Open spaces with ancient roots
Long before manicured courses, Leith Links was a popular sporting base. Described as “the home of golf”, in 1744 the first official rules were drawn up for a tournament on Leith Links, and these rules, 13 in total, formed the basis for the modern game of golf.
Today, it remains a much-loved public park, where walkers, runners and cyclists share a landscape shaped by history. The nearby Croft Food Hub run by Earth in Common is worth a visit for its café and farm shop. It also hosts a variety of yearly events, including Leith Festival.
Uncover more about Leith through its varied attractions, shops and accommodation.
This project is funded by the UK Shared Prosperity Fund
