Edinburgh’s pub culture is as rich as its history – brimming with warmth and character, and the comforting aromas of slow-cooked stews and hoppy ales.
Whether you’re craving classic haggis in a centuries-old tavern, or a modern take on Scotland’s national dish in a stylish gastropub, Edinburgh is packed with mouthwatering choices.
From Leith to the Pentlands, there’s a seat (and a story) waiting for you. Where will you tuck in next?
Best for traditional fare
If your ideal lunch involves classic dishes, rich in heritage and brimming with local flavour, Edinburgh’s traditional pubs have all that, and more. Start your culinary journey on the Royal Mile at The World’s End, where low ceilings and dark wood panelling set the tone for robust staples like steak and ale pie or chicken kyiv. Whiski Bar & Restaurant and Whiski Rooms both offer a polished take on traditional fare. Whiski Bar & Restaurant keeps it rustic and lively with music every night, while Whiski Rooms pairs dishes like haggis tower and Scotch steak pie with an encyclopaedic whisky list.
Close to the Grassmarket area of the city, Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar is a cosy and inviting spot, named after the city’s most famous dog, Greyfriars Bobby’s. Just around the corner, George IV Bar offers hearty food in a relaxed setting – ideal for people-watching over a plate of fish and chips or mac ‘n’ cheese.
In the New Town, The Auld Hundred on Rose Street offers a satisfying lunch in a snug, pubby environment. The Queen’s Arms blends vintage décor with hearty classics and handpicked cask ales and craft beers, while The Abbotsford’s Bar serves its pies and pints amid a stunning backdrop of a classic island mahogany bar and elegantly decorated ceiling.
Outside the city centre there’s no shortage of traditional gems. Swanston Farm & Brasserie, nestled at the foot of the Pentlands, is a countryside escape with locally sourced seasonal dishes. Old Chain Pier at Newhaven boasts stunning waterfront views and classic mains such as battered haddock and chowder, or for a more historic atmosphere with your haggis, head to The King’s Wark in Leith, a pub with roots dating back to the 1400s, and serving up a traditional menu with a focus on local produce, meat, game and sustainable seafood.
Best for a modern twist on Scottish cuisine
For those after something a little more refined, or inventive, Edinburgh’s modern pub scene strikes a balance between innovation and heritage. Take a walk through Stockbridge to Scran and Scallie, a popular gastropub from Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin. Here, rustic dishes are elevated to gourmet heights. Child friendly, they also have a special menu for scallies under 12. Nearby, The Cumberland Bar with its secluded beer garden, is a popular spot with locals.
In the city centre, Hot Toddy, just off the Royal Mile, is a great option for a light, fresh take on lunch, with a focus on locally sourced produce, and a variety of options for meat lovers, vegans and gluten-free visitors. For something a little moodier and tucked away, The Devil’s Advocate sets the scene with exposed stone walls and a rotating menu of modern Scottish dishes. Similarly stylish Badger & Co on Castle Street is a literary whimsical bar offering a contemporary twist on comfort food, from whisky glazed smoked salmon to pan-roasted chicken supreme.
Down by the water at South Queensferry, Scott’s Bar & Restaurant pairs panoramic Forth Bridge views with elegant plates. Watch the world go by while tucking into dry aged steaks and freshly landed seafood, accompanied by an extensive wine list, classic cocktails or local artisan gins and craft beers.
Best for a cosy and historic atmosphere
Edinburgh’s oldest and cosiest pubs are havens of history, with low-beamed ceilings and roaring fires that warm the bones as much as the food does.
In the Grassmarket, The Last Drop and White Hart Inn are two of the city’s oldest taverns. The Last Drop nods to the area’s dark history of executions, while the White Hart Inn, dating back to 1516, claims connections to poet Robert Burns. Both offer a rich atmosphere alongside traditional pub fare such as Cullen skink, haggis, neeps and tatties, and beer-battered fish and chips.
Venture down the Royal Mile and you’ll discover the Tolbooth Tavern, part of a 16th century building that once served as a council chamber, police court and prison. Its intimate corners are perfect for tucking into dishes such as warm black pudding salad, panko crusted haggis cake and steak and haggis pie. For a slice of Scottish village life without leaving the city, make the short trek to The Sheep Hein Inn near Duddingston Loch. Believed to be the oldest pub in Scotland, this ancient spot boasts a menu of starters, mains, light bites, sharing platters and desserts, and a dedicated children’s menu.
A traditional golfing tavern, The Golf Tavern in Bruntsfield was established in 1456. Overlooking the Links, it’s perfect for a post-lunch after a game on the short-hole course. For similarly relaxed surroundings, The Antiquary and The Bailie, both in Stockbridge, offer snugness, candlelit tables and shelves of whisky to pair with your ploughman’s.
If you’re looking for a waterside venue with a tale to tell, Hawes Inn and The Ferry Tap in South Queensferry offer just that. The Hawes Inn even features in Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic novel, Kidnapped, while The Ferry Tap remains a favourite for classic pub dining with a matched whisky selection.
Spread across the city, from gin bars to craft beer specialities, find more places to wet your whistle in bars and pubs in Edinburgh.
This project is funded by the UK Shared Prosperity Fund
